PROJECT: 1998 Nissan 240SX SE Jim Wolfe Technology Cam Install

Here's what I had to do to install it, and the problems.

Cams at TCD, compression stroke. Sorry about the blur.	One cam at a time!	Press on the tensioner here to get some chain slack.

Remove the valve cover. Take note to remove the bolts in the order specified in the FSM.
First off, ensure the motor is at TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke for cyl #1. You can tell it is on the compression stroke either because the rotor on the distributor is damn close to firing cyl #1, or if you have the valve cover off, the cam lobes of cyl #1 should be pointing away from each other. (as you can see in the first pic - sorry it's so blurry).
Next, MARK THE CAMS WITH PAINT. Now. Do it. Don't wait. Don't loosen ANYTHING. Mark the suckers. Mark them good, and with something that won't come off, smudge, or anything. And then, only then, remove a single cam, again FOLLOW THE FSM for the order to loosen/tighten the bolts in! Also not, that for my 1998, the FSM lists 6 bearing journals. However, in my 1998, there are only 5 bearing journals! My 1992, though, had 6. Interesting... Anyway, once you have swapped one cam (pay attention to the FSM tightening order and torque specs too!), you can do the other one.
I recommend that you remove the cam gears, by doing the intake cam first, and when reassembling, do the intake cam gear last. Since this gear is close to the tensioner, you can push in on the tensioner (I used the butt end of my ratchet) and get some chain slack to help. Note that the cams may move a couple of degrees when you remove the cam gears. No problem. Just keep the wrench handy when replacing them, and turn the cam as you try to line up the gears.
Please also take note that JWT says the chain cannot slip on the bottom gear (the idler gear). This is true. The chain cannot slide around the bottom gear at all. However, what I found DOES happen, is that the slack on the exhaust gear side (from pulling the gear) causes the chain to bunch on the idler gear, making it seem that the chain suddenly got a link shorter! (Just take care that the chain is properly wrapped around the idler gear, and things should be OK.)
Sorry I don't have more install pictures, but the rest of my install time was devoted to my PROBLEM.

THE PROBLEM

Hmm.. What the?	That's what it's supposed to look like.	So I'll just make it look that way.	The s13 - the correct way it should look.	The s14. Jumped a tooth!

Well, I thought this would work. Famous last words. My problem occured when I didn't mark the intake cam gear, then removed it BEFORE marking the exhaust. I removed the intake, and even wire tied it - I figure if it can't move, it can't get off a tooth. However, due to the chain tension and a bunch of moving while sliding the gear off, what happened is the chain actually skipped one tooth on the exhaust side during the intake removal. When I went to reinstall, I did the exhaust side first, which was off a mark, and I could tell things didn't look quite right! (see 1st pic which is wrong, and 2nd pic which is correct).
Oh damn! I'm SO screwed. I was very nervous. Then I thought - HEY! I have another, not screwed up, sitting right outside! Comparo time! I grabbed my tools and broke open my S13, after setting it to TDC on the compression stroke. The correct look is in the 2nd pic. So I pulled apart all the stuff on the S14, and made it look like the s13. (see 3rd pic) You can see how the paint mark is off by a tooth.
In the close ups, you can see how the notch in the exhaust cam SHOULD face. With the chain tight on the exhaust gear, the notch that holds the cam pin should be at a near perfect right angle to the head (compare to the angle of the notch in the 1st pic).

s13 at TDC	s14 at TDC (corrected)	s13 after rotation	s14 after rotation

Here's the comparison shots. If you have problems, set your gears as in the correct pic (1st pic). Note the indents on the gears just outside of the bolt's washer on both cam gears. That is the position you want them to be at. Also, if you are unsure, set the exhaust cam gear first. ENSURE the chain is tight, and that there is no slack on the idler gear first!!!!!!! Then, set the exhaust gear to be 90 degrees from the plane of the head (NOTE, all of these pics up to this point, are with the engine at TDC compression. Check and re-check that as you go!!!! I find that it may move on you unknowingly!!!). With the exhaust gear set, cound the number of links between the small circle indents on the cam gears (there are 7 links between them in the s13 pic - if your mark is in the CENTER of a link, the total BETWEEN the marks will be 6, not 7). That should give you the setup for the intake gear. All together it should look as in the first 2 pics.
I then rotated the motors a bit to see how things lined up after some motion. The last pics are after, IIRC, 360 degrees of crank rotation.
In summary, if you get the cam timing messed up, you should be able to recover by:

1. Set the motor at TDC for cyl #1's compression stroke. Then check it. And recheck it. Then check again.
2. Start with the exhaust cam gear
   1. Ensure that the chain is not bunched on the idler gear
   2. Pulling the chain tight, determine the cam gear position such that the cam pin notch is 90 degrees to the plane of the head
   3. With a wrench ready on the cam, line up the cam gear notch and cam pin.
   4. Double check that the chain is tight between the gear and the idler again. Install the cam gear.
3. Double check that you are still at TDC compression stroke.
4. Then move to the intake cam gear
   1. Check the number of links between the small circle indents on both gears. Compare to the FSM, and to the sheet JWT provides. (I think there should be 7 links if the marks are BETWEEN links, and 6 links if the marks are ON the links)
   2. With a wrench ready on the cam, line up the cam gear notch and cam pin.
   3. Push in on the chain tensioner if you need some slack in the chain, and install the cam gear.
5. Double check that you are still at TDC compression stroke.
6. Double check that the angle of the notches in the cam gears match HERE
7. Triple check everything.

A bit of polishing.	Done at last!	Dyno of cams with stock ECU.

With everything apart, I took just a couple of hours to polish up the cover a bit. Well, after 8 hours of work, it looked mediocre, and I didn't care anymore. It's NOT an easy job. But even with it only mostly done, it still looks good.
Hopefully by this point, everything is buttoned up. And wha-la! You have some decent HP. After my install, I had the car dyno'd. This was still with the stock ECU. You can see how the power peak is now right at the rev limiter! (Since then I've gotten the ECU installed. Those extra 500RPM really help with the cams in there!).